Chemical peels are a popular and effective way to improve the appearance of the skin, but with so many different acids and strengths available, it can be difficult to know which one is right for you. Understanding the different categories of chemical peel acids and how each solution's results differ on the skin is essential for achieving optimal results.
The three main categories of chemical peel acids are superficial, medium and deep peels.
Superficial Peels, also known as lunchtime peels, are the mildest form of chemical peel. They use mild acids such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or low percentage trichloroacetic acid (TCA) to gently exfoliate the skin and improve the appearance of fine lines, acne, and uneven pigmentation. The most common type of AHA used in superficial peels are glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and is the smallest AHA which makes it able to penetrate the skin more easily than other AHAs. Other acids used, lactic acid which is derived from milk and BHA, salicylic acid is derived from willow bark and is known to be effective in unclogging pores and reducing breakouts. Superficial peels can be performed at home or in a professional setting, and they usually cause little to no downtime. Dermatologist's Choice TCA Advance Peel Solution rollerball is a great superficial chemical peel for use at home.
Medium Peels, such as trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels, penetrate deeper into the skin to address more severe signs of aging, such as wrinkles and sun damage. TCA peels can be applied in different concentrations, from light to medium, depending on the desired level of penetration. They are typically performed in a professional setting and can cause some downtime, such as redness and peeling. A study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found that a series of TCA peels improved the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in participants.
Deep Peels, such as phenol peels, penetrate the deepest into the skin and are typically used to treat severe signs of aging, such as deep wrinkles and severe sun damage. They are typically performed in a professional setting under sedation or anesthesia and can cause significant downtime, such as redness, swelling, and peeling for up to two weeks. Phenol peels are considered the most aggressive type of peel and are not recommended for darker skin tones as they can cause significant discoloration.
Another type of chemical peel is Jessner Peel. This is a medium-depth chemical peel that typically uses a combination of salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol to improve the appearance of fine lines, acne, uneven pigmentation, and sun damage. Jessner peels are typically performed in a professional setting and can cause some downtime, such as redness and peeling.
Another type of chemical peel is Obagi Blue Peel. This is a medium-depth chemical peel that uses a combination of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and a blue tint to improve the appearance of fine lines, acne, uneven pigmentation, and sun damage. Obagi Blue Peel is typically performed in a professional setting and can cause some downtime, such as redness and peeling.
It's important to keep in mind that chemical peels should be used with caution and under the guidance of a skincare professional, as improper use can cause irritation, redness, and even permanent damage to the skin. It is also important to use sunscreen after a chemical peel to avoid sun damage.
In conclusion, chemical peels can be a great way to improve the appearance of the skin, but it's important to understand the different types of acids and how they penetrate the skin. Superficial peels such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) or low percentage TCA are the mildest and can be performed at home or in a professional setting. Medium peels such as trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels, penetrate deeper into the skin to address more severe signs of aging. Deep peels such as phenol peels, penetrate the deepest into the skin and are typically used to treat severe signs of aging, such as deep wrinkles and severe sun damage. It's important to use caution and under the guidance of a skincare professional, and always use sunscreen after a chemical peel to avoid sun damage.
New to Chemical Peels? Start with the Dermatologist's Choice 60 Seconds to Glow Kit here.
References:
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, "Trichloroacetic acid peels for the treatment of wrinkles and skin pigmentation"
- Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, "Kojic acid peel versus glycolic acid peel in the treatment of melasma in dark-skinned individuals: a randomized controlled trial"
- Journal of Dermatological Treatment, "Chemical Peels in Skin of Color"
- Journal of Dermatological Treatment, "Jessner's solution: a historical perspective"
- Journal of Drugs in Dermatology